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Choosing the perfect exhaust tip allows you to:
- Apply a personalized finishing-touch to your custom exhaust system
- Replace a drooping, blown-out, rusty mess of a factory tip
- Easily add some style and individual flare to your vehicle
So you buckled down and dropped some Benjamins on a ferocious new exhaust system. You spent most of your Saturday afternoon installing the beast while visions of massive power gains and throaty rumbles ran through your imagination. After all your hard work, you know better than to top off your system with a ho-hum, factory-style tip--or worse yet, reuse the original tip that you just cut off. That's like wearing your dirty socks after a shower! Instead, add the crowning-touch to your new exhaust system with one of the many exhaust tips available online. With our vast variety of styles to choose from, you're sure to find that one perfect tip to make your statement.
Replacing factory exhaust tips
Let's face it, most factory exhaust systems leave a lot to be desired. They're usually not designed for performance or tuned for a killer sound. Worse yet, they're often made from untreated mild steel that rusts out and eventually fails. Not to mention how mundane factory exhaust tips look--even when brand new. And nothing says "jalopy" like an old corroded exhaust tip hanging from under a vehicle. Whether you want to beat the rust demons to the punch or you need to replace a dragging tip that leaves a spectacular shower of sparks in your wake, a custom chrome exhaust tip will showcase your individual style and replace that weak factory pipe topper.
How do I know what size to choose?
To ensure that you order the correct size exhaust tip, 3 sizes must be known:
Inlet Size:
The inlet measurement on the exhaust tip must match the diameter of your
tailpipe.
Outlet Size:
This is the size of the exhaust side of your tip. Some tips flare out, some are straight. If your vehicle's body has a cut-out for a stainless steel exhaust tip, make sure the new one will clear this area to avoid an unsightly fit, or even worse, burning or scorching your vehicle's body.
Length:
This measurement determines how far out your tip is going to extend. Just as with outlet size, you must consider the locations of any factory cut-outs. You also want to make sure that the hot exhaust gasses will be exiting safely.
How do I decide between stainless steel and chromed steel?
Both materials are great for building high-quality exhaust tips. If you're looking for economical style, go with the chromed steel. If you seek a long-lasting luster and a material that stands up to years of abuse, stainless steel is your answer.
Chromed Steel Is:
- Inexpensive
- Lighter than stainless steel
- Less tolerant to long-term abuse
- Prone to rust once the chrome layer is compromised
Stainless Steel Is:
- Polished, not plated
- Extremely resistant to corrosion
- Provides years of service and still gleams
- Costs more than chromed steel
Buying online is the way to go for tips. I found the perfect match for my Toyota Tacoma and ended up purchasing a magnaflow exhaust tip and still turn heads on the road! :)
Over the past 12 years, the preference of the gas space heater market has shifted drastically towards power vented gas space heaters and away from gravity vented models. Most major manufacturers are currently phasing out their gravity vented product line. There have been many reasons for this shift:
20% Better Fuel Efficiency. While fuel prices continue to skyrocket and manufacturing methods become more efficient, the payback period for power vented units can no longer be a factor - there usually is no payback period. The smaller diameter vent pipes and shorter horizontal runs associated with power vented units make the installation less costly. Often times the upfront installation cost of a power vented unit is LESS than a gravity vented unit. Considering the lower first cost and the lower operating cost, nobody should choose gravity vented units in a new application.
Tighter Building Designs Combined With Lower Flue Gas Temperatures Create Venting Problems. When building construction was looser there was more natural infiltration; this was ideal for the less efficient gravity vented unit that produces higher flue temperatures. With loose construction, there are rarely any venting problems. With tight construction, there are many venting problems. Flue temperatures have been reduced as the thermal efficiencies have eclipsed 80%, nearly eliminating the natural draft effect in modern vent systems. Along with the increased thermal efficiency came negative indoor air pressure. Other higher efficiency products such as boilers and exhaust systems can create a negative pressure in the space. Negative indoor pressure plus cooler flue gasses results in poor venting, flame roll-out, increased condensation and corrosion inside the vent systems. This causes premature failures of heat exchangers, vent systems and burners. Often times flue gas would spill into the heated space. Blocked vent safety switches (BVSS) became mandated by code to protect users. Incidences of nuisance lockouts, no-heat situations and manual resets increased drastically with the code-mandated blocked vent safety switches (BVSS).
Power Vented Units Are Less Expensive Than Gravity Vented Gas Space Heaters. As demand for power vented units increased, while the demand for gravity vented units decreased, the laws of economics took hold. With increased demand came longer production runs which reduced set-up and overhead costs. The cost of purchasing components for the power vented units decreased as well. Furthermore, with the aforementioned increased efficiency and reliability, the cost of manufacturer support in the form of service calls and warranty claims decreased. The opposite effects increased the costs of gravity vented units; which manufacturers have passed on to the consumer.
The U.S. Department of Energy's Energy Policy Act of 2005 is the most recent blow to the gravity vented gas space heater market, which takes effect in August of 2008. The new codes, which are designed to reduce fuel consumption, will further reduce demand for gravity vented gas space heaters. Gravity vented units will require the following:
· Intermittent Ignition Device: The price premium for gravity vented units will increase with this additional cost.
· Automatic Vent Dampers: This expensive addition is meant to open the vent system while gravity vented units are running and close them when the units are off. This raises the total installation cost and increases the wiring complexity and sequence of operations.
Per the requirements of the 2005 EPAct, owners who purchase a power vented unit will simultaneously reap the benefits of:
Decreased equipment costs Decreased installation costs Decreased wiring and sequence of operation complexity Decreased risk of nuisance lockouts, no-heat situations and manual resets Decreased risk of flue products spilling into area Increased ability to overcome negative indoor air pressure problems Increased equipment reliability Increased equipment life expectancy
The following is a simple guide line for replacing a gravity vented unit with a power vented gas space heater unit.
When replacing a single gravity vented unit with a power vented unit, it is important to comply with National Gas Code (NFPA 54) venting information. When replacing a unit and determining if the vent system is re-usable, the following article is applicable.
NFPA 54 - 2002, article 13.2.21:
(Quick overview - see article or details) Vent Connector Upsizing - Vent connections shall not be increased more than two sizes greater than the listed appliance categorized vent diameter.
Items to review before using an existing system:
1) Inspect vent systems prior to reusing to ensure solid integrity.
2) For multiple units, the vent systems must be separated unless the unit venting conforms to common venting requirements listed in your manufacturer's installation literature.
If an existing gravity vented unit has been converted with a powered exhaust, review the venting system to ensure that it meets the venting requirements in your owner's manual and article 13.2.21.
Over the past 30 years, there have been hoards of documentation on the harmful effects of outdoor pollution, but only in recent years has it come to the attention of the scientific community that indoor pollution is wreaking havoc on human health, too. With the large amount of time an average person spends inside, the need to reduce indoor pollution has become an important problem to solve.
One appliance used to combat indoor pollution is the exhaust blower. The blower is used to vent smoke, moisture, foul odors and other harmful contaminants floating around in the air. Such blowers are routinely found in moist damp areas, or areas that attract plumes of smoke, such as kitchens or bathrooms. As these environments are subjected to large amounts of steam, they are more prone to develop mold, as mold thrives in steamy conditions. The blowers are also popular in kitchens because they push unwanted cooking smells and smoke outdoors.
An exhaust blower can also be used in tandem with cooling and heating units. During those hot summer months, a blower can vent the warm air inside, while sucking in potentially cooler air from the outside, supplementing a more expensive cooling system - or replacing your air conditioner all together. Along with the many uses the blower has in the home, it is also valuable in working environments, such as workshops, car garages, hospitals and labs. These areas are often filled with harmful particulates, so venting the air is crucial for maintaining healthy air, while also creating a comfortable, odor-free environment.
Installation is usually not difficult, but you will want to make sure you are comfortable working with electrical appliances, as you will need to wire the fan in place.
You can find the blowers in different places, but your best option is usually a Google search. After typing in "Exhaust Blower" into the Google search field, a number of options will come up, offering you the best prices and deals that fit your needs.
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It's difficult to imagine how aerial bucket trucks are able to move their booms and lift heavy loads. Basically, this bucket truck gets its lifting capability from a powerful diesel engine. The power is converted to lift heavy loads via the hydraulic system. The amazing thing about this accomplishment is that the medium for transmitting all that power is simply a viscous liquid called hydraulic fluid.
Today, the bucket truck has progressed to become a safe piece of equipment with plenty of failsafe mechanisms to protect the employee working inside the bucket should this lifting method ever fail. One component that keeps the bucket truck safe is the integral holding valve that is built in to the cylinder. Its purpose is to hold the boom in position if a failure occurs between the cylinder and the directional valve.
Structure Vulnerable to Breakdowns
Despite these fail-safe features, the structure is still vulnerable to breakdowns. One of the most common causes is pollution. As a matter of fact, 75% of all hydraulic failures are caused by dirt inside the mechanism, and only 25% is due to pure mechanical failure.
Supposedly, the device is free from any foreign material for optimum service life; however, sometimes during production or between servicing, debris such as iron filings, sand, excess sealant, dust and chipped paint can contaminate it.
Effect of Foreign Debris
Foreign debris can contaminate different parts during production if the production area isn't clean and well ventilated. Dust particles can easily enter the orifices of the hydraulic parts and contaminate the system. The same problem can occur when it is serviced by non-specialized technicians. Bad repair practices can easily introduce foreign debris into the apparatus.
Despite their size, pollutants can easily damage different parts of the hydraulic system and compromise its safety. Small paint fragments or metal shavings can potentially block fluid inlets restricting or reducing the flow or totally blocking the movement of the fluid.
Even microscopic debris can have a detrimental effect on the hydraulic system. Specks of dust and other small solid fragments can wear out oil seals causing leaks and releasing pressure from the structure. Solid pollutants can also get in-between moving parts and restrict their movement. The added friction could also speed up the part's wear and tear resulting in the necessity of service much sooner.
Lack of Proper Servicing
Aside from foreign debris, another cause of system pollution is the lack of regular servicing. Hydraulic fluids should be changed regularly as prescribed by the truck manufacturer. Fluids will change property over time due to factors such as heat and pressure as well as the addition of shavings from the structure's moving parts during normal operation. The changes in the fluid's viscosity, as well as the accumulation of dirt, can also affect the system's performance.
Pollution inside the system can potentially reduce the lifts upward ascent capability, be the cause of a slowed response, or worse yet, totally fail during operation.
Use Manufacturer's Replacement Parts
To prevent hydraulic system pollution, it is important to purchase aerial bucket trucks with brand names from well-known and established manufacturers. Servicing should also be performed only by authorized technicians. Whenever parts replacement is required such as the hydraulic oil filter system, only use replacement parts recommended by the truck manufacturer.
Lastly, follow the truck's regular maintenance schedule. If these guidelines are followed, the breakdown of any part of an aerial bucket truck due to hydraulic system failure caused by pollution into the system should not happen!
